As is usual, the last days blur into travel, recovery and getting back to normal life. Our last day in Barcelona was quiet. We went back to the beach but it was a cool day. we dipped our toes in the Mediterranean. It was freezing. Did some window shopping, packed and enjoyed our deck and last Spanish wine. Went back to the Indian restaurant for another great meal. We had Tandoori. You could tell they used a real clay oven to bake the chicken. We spent the following night in a Madrid airport hotel (which cost almost as much as our Sevilla apartment for the week). Flight home was fine. We were rescued at the airport shuttle office in Athens by friend Cindy (long story). She got us home quickly, which we very much appreciated. We have survived the jet lag and Spain quickly becomes the past, which is hard to believe.
Some thoughts on the trip before they are forgotten.
We were exposed to some of the most amazing artwork (painting). The Prado houses immense collections. But to see the masterpieces of El Greco, Velasquez and Goya in one afternoon was a real privilege. We later went to the Picasso Museum in Barcelona. One room was entirely made up of studies/interpretations of a Velasquez work that he had seen at the Prado. I need to research this to see if he put down his thoughts on these studies. The architecture was, also, so impressive. So much history is seen through the buildings and gardens that were built, back to the first century. The history was, also, interesting when viewed in todays context. For some 600 years Spain was under the control of the Moors. But, from what we were told, the Moors, Christians and Jews lived in harmony. This period of time was an era of great scientific, artistic and social development. Assuming this is true, you wonder why it isn't possible today. The history of Spain, also, demonstrates the excesses of power. This is ironic, as today, Spain appears to be very focused on its ecology and energy uses. Very efficient ways of managing the environment and energy have been developed.
This trip, once again, put us in a country that has a public sanitation system and many aspects of its infrastructure that surpass the US. I don't know why the US has lagged behind in the areas. Spain/ Europe have had the same, if not worse, economic hardships as the US. Maybe it is the size of our country that makes it difficult to keep up. It would really be nice to have a train system like that in Spain. It is a great way to travel. They have traffic issues, as well. But a lot of pressure is taken off highways, etc, by the trains.
Best of all, they have chocolate and churros.
This trip seemed to have more than its share of obstacles. New camera breaking, blog difficulties (thanks Google) that added much time to the preparation, lost glasses, tooth problems, a rogue tour operator (never use Naturanda and don't let the tour agencies use them either), and others. But we persevered and did not let it get in our way. Good teamwork.
Monday, October 19, 2015
Sunday, October 11, 2015
10/11/2015: La Playa
Very lazy day. Late breakfast at Little Ramblas. Walked to the beach. Tried to cab it but streets were clogged. It is Sunday and everyone is out on the street with the touristas. Made it to the beach without difficulty. It s a beautiful beach. There are chairs and umbrellas for rent. We were unsure as photos seem to indicate everyone on a towel in full sun. The beach was not real busy. Apparently, in the summer, every inch is taken. And it is a huge beach. Very nice and wide promenade with public facilities. Many restaurants and shops a large shopping mall behind one area. Another further from where we were. We sat for an hour and decided to come back tomorrow. We will be better prepared. Took a rickshaw back to the Ramblas. Young man from England was our driver.
Went back to Little Ramblas. We were very happy to to find it was quiet and relatively uncrowded (the main streets were packed). We were eating pizza and I commented on the graffiti we have encountered. I said it must indicate something happening in the underbelly of the city. About 10 minutes later a fight broke out on one of the plaza streets. It was serious. It appeared to be either a gang thing or racial (Latino/Arabic) or religious. It calmed down once and then reflared. At that point, all the restaurant servers (many restaurants on the plaza), including a woman, apparently had enough. They came out, in force. The fight stopped quickly. We speculated that it would carry over to tonight or some other day day.
We had plenty of pizza left. We decided to eat in tonight. There is much going on politically. Catalonia recently had local elections. It was basically a referendum on independence from Spain. The separatists won handily and have an outright majority in the Catalonian government. Spain, historically, was not a true country. They remain a group of independent providences (or some other term). Franco tried to solidify nationality forcibly but did not succeed. Now the Catalonians want to be independent of Spain. The Basques do as well. So there seems to be dome political tension in the air. It may be escalating other tensions. With a public holiday tomorrow, we are going to lay low on the beach. Plus, we are getting tired!
Went back to Little Ramblas. We were very happy to to find it was quiet and relatively uncrowded (the main streets were packed). We were eating pizza and I commented on the graffiti we have encountered. I said it must indicate something happening in the underbelly of the city. About 10 minutes later a fight broke out on one of the plaza streets. It was serious. It appeared to be either a gang thing or racial (Latino/Arabic) or religious. It calmed down once and then reflared. At that point, all the restaurant servers (many restaurants on the plaza), including a woman, apparently had enough. They came out, in force. The fight stopped quickly. We speculated that it would carry over to tonight or some other day day.
We had plenty of pizza left. We decided to eat in tonight. There is much going on politically. Catalonia recently had local elections. It was basically a referendum on independence from Spain. The separatists won handily and have an outright majority in the Catalonian government. Spain, historically, was not a true country. They remain a group of independent providences (or some other term). Franco tried to solidify nationality forcibly but did not succeed. Now the Catalonians want to be independent of Spain. The Basques do as well. So there seems to be dome political tension in the air. It may be escalating other tensions. With a public holiday tomorrow, we are going to lay low on the beach. Plus, we are getting tired!
Saturday, October 10, 2015
10/10/2015: Picasso
Ventured into the Gothic area of Barcelona. Becky got outfitted with some cool black stuff. Not sure what it means, though. We went to the Picasso museum. This is a museum that he, basically, started. Most of the work is from his very early days as a classical painter (very good) and his progression through abstract, impressionism, cubism and beyond, in a very short time. These are works that he and his family gave to the museum. It was interesting to see, some mistakes, his obsession with certain themes and techniques and his beginnings, in general.
Lunch near the wharfs. Watched various launches head out. Very nice to be by the sea, some shopping. Tomorrow, a las playas. Photos: Columbus, pier photos.
10/9/2015: Gaudi part 2
Went to the Mercado Bocaria this morning. It is an easy walk from here. It is the biggest food market in Spain. It is a beautiful display of fruits, vegetables, meats, oils, sweets, and everything you can think of. To enjoy it (for us) you need to get there early before the hordes descend. I took photos and we had breakfast at a countertop restaurant/meat market. Before us, under glass were some kind of sea creatures, still alive. We had a rather standard meal. Eight Koreans sat down next to us. They ordered a plate of raw muscles, clams, lobster, shrimp, vegetables and God knows what. They were very happy. We walked the stalls until it started getting crowded.
In the afternoon, we had a long walk to the meeting point for the Segrada Familia tour. It gave us a chance to see other parts of the town. We found a panadaria close to where we were meeting. I had a huge churro filled with caramel. Becky will vouch it was good beyond description. A reserved tour is the only way to get in without spending a whole day getting tickets and waiting to gain entrance. This is Gaudi's ongoing opus. It was started in the late 1800s. Very little was actually finished before he died. Over the years many of his models and plans were destroyed or lost. It has been built on meager reserves of his master plan. Now, it is largely being financed by tourist dollars. The outside is impressive. The plan was for 8 towers, 12 for the apostles, 4 for the evangelists, one for Mary and one for Jesus. About 6 have been completed. They say it will be done by 2026. I think that is optomistic. The outside is impressive, also, for all of the sophisticated construction equipment in place to work on it.
Inside, the effect of the stained glass is remarkable. The inside is one gigantic room. Towers rise to various points in the ceiling. Different techniques were used to support the upper structures, including dolphin like supports. The effect of various lights and colored lights throughout the interior were pastel like. There are incredible stairways leading up the towers and stunning sculptures.
For me, if this had been done during Guadi's life time, it would have been an amazing achievement for his faith and devotion to Christianity. However, the majority of the construction has been done with tourist dollars using modern construction techniques. It should, in some way, be more directed to the public domain. However, it will always remain purely dedicated to his Christian/Catholic vision and purpose. One commentator has called it a Christian Disneyland. I hope, some how, it can transcend that. But when you are elbow to elbow with people inside and out, you wonder what it really is.
Two free days coming up. Not sure what to expect. Sunday's are always interesting. Monday is a national holiday. Columbus Day. Go figure. Should be fun.
In the afternoon, we had a long walk to the meeting point for the Segrada Familia tour. It gave us a chance to see other parts of the town. We found a panadaria close to where we were meeting. I had a huge churro filled with caramel. Becky will vouch it was good beyond description. A reserved tour is the only way to get in without spending a whole day getting tickets and waiting to gain entrance. This is Gaudi's ongoing opus. It was started in the late 1800s. Very little was actually finished before he died. Over the years many of his models and plans were destroyed or lost. It has been built on meager reserves of his master plan. Now, it is largely being financed by tourist dollars. The outside is impressive. The plan was for 8 towers, 12 for the apostles, 4 for the evangelists, one for Mary and one for Jesus. About 6 have been completed. They say it will be done by 2026. I think that is optomistic. The outside is impressive, also, for all of the sophisticated construction equipment in place to work on it.
Inside, the effect of the stained glass is remarkable. The inside is one gigantic room. Towers rise to various points in the ceiling. Different techniques were used to support the upper structures, including dolphin like supports. The effect of various lights and colored lights throughout the interior were pastel like. There are incredible stairways leading up the towers and stunning sculptures.
For me, if this had been done during Guadi's life time, it would have been an amazing achievement for his faith and devotion to Christianity. However, the majority of the construction has been done with tourist dollars using modern construction techniques. It should, in some way, be more directed to the public domain. However, it will always remain purely dedicated to his Christian/Catholic vision and purpose. One commentator has called it a Christian Disneyland. I hope, some how, it can transcend that. But when you are elbow to elbow with people inside and out, you wonder what it really is.
Barcelona: Gaudi Part 1
Did the on and off bus. Great way to see a city like Barcelona. Got to the the Park Guell fairly army. Got tickets but had to wait an hour and a half before we could use them. They stricktly control the amount of people in at one time. Still it was mobs. Killed time at a nearby restaurant. Originally, this was the concept of Gaudi and Guell for a residential area. It never made it. What is left is the Park.
The park is interesting. The gardens were largely done blooming, but still very green. The architecture, of course, was very entertaining. Lots of ovals,spheres, winding shapes, columns, inlays, etc. We expected more sculpture works throughout the garden. We have seem film on the park. I think th film makers were creative in their photography. Still was interesting. The use of the space with Curving trails and varying elevations was very ingenious.
We walked back to the Ramblas. This is a very wide promenade that travels several miles from the ocean to the inland. Has pretty much everything, restaurants, flower shops, shop shops, gelato places, artists, etc. Walked down to the pier area. We I'll explore this later.
Went to a great Indian restaurant on Little Ramblas for dinner. Was the best we have had. (Well, for me, what I had in India could not be beat, but that was many years ago). Sagrada Familia tomorrow.
Photos: Guell Park ( house is Gaudi's), Fountain is Pl Catalunya, Plaza pics with bubbles for kids and band for everyone, Casa Beethoven , for Cary, building at pier, close up of building with new lens.
The park is interesting. The gardens were largely done blooming, but still very green. The architecture, of course, was very entertaining. Lots of ovals,spheres, winding shapes, columns, inlays, etc. We expected more sculpture works throughout the garden. We have seem film on the park. I think th film makers were creative in their photography. Still was interesting. The use of the space with Curving trails and varying elevations was very ingenious.
We walked back to the Ramblas. This is a very wide promenade that travels several miles from the ocean to the inland. Has pretty much everything, restaurants, flower shops, shop shops, gelato places, artists, etc. Walked down to the pier area. We I'll explore this later.
Went to a great Indian restaurant on Little Ramblas for dinner. Was the best we have had. (Well, for me, what I had in India could not be beat, but that was many years ago). Sagrada Familia tomorrow.
Photos: Guell Park ( house is Gaudi's), Fountain is Pl Catalunya, Plaza pics with bubbles for kids and band for everyone, Casa Beethoven , for Cary, building at pier, close up of building with new lens.
10/7 - 10/9/2015: Leaving Sevilla
Had an early flight, so we cabbed it to the airport. Tooth was OK, slept well. Surprisingly, the Seville airport is only the 6th largest in Spain. The Canary Islands and other resort destinations must ahead of Seville. Flight, etc.,was fine. The boarding system, in Spain, is worse than the US, which is saying something. We were wishing we took the rrain. They have a great system for train travel. On the way in from the airport, we saw a lot of evidence of industry and seaport activity. A lot of things in motion. A very different vibe from Seville and Madrid. Ther is more greenery, as well.
Met with our new landlord at Les Tres Tombes restaurant. Seemed a somewhat ominous way to start. Matt is an ex-pat from Canada. Could not stand the winter anymore. The apartment is very nice. It has a beautiful terrace area. We are on thetop floor, again and have interesting views of the city. The inside is a very well thought out use of space and light. Space is a premium commodity in Europe. They have many great space savings ideas. Like the dish drying rack that sits inside a cupboard over the sink. The water drips off the dishrack into the sink.
Did some exploring. Found "Little Rambla". Great lunch and a good location not far from apartment with shops and restaurants. We are in a very diverse neighborhood. Many eastern and far eastern people here. Muslims make up about 20% of the population. Many have made their homes in this area. They are from all over, India, Pakistan, Morrocco, etc. many shops and restaurants. The aromas are great. Also, a panadaria and wine shop every few feet. Our kind of place.
We are doing the hop on and off bus thing tomorrow. Hope to see the Park Gruell, if lines are'nt to long. Should have time for more exploring.
Photos from our terrace. Had intermittent downpours. Area from above looks like scenes from India that I remember.
Met with our new landlord at Les Tres Tombes restaurant. Seemed a somewhat ominous way to start. Matt is an ex-pat from Canada. Could not stand the winter anymore. The apartment is very nice. It has a beautiful terrace area. We are on thetop floor, again and have interesting views of the city. The inside is a very well thought out use of space and light. Space is a premium commodity in Europe. They have many great space savings ideas. Like the dish drying rack that sits inside a cupboard over the sink. The water drips off the dishrack into the sink.
Did some exploring. Found "Little Rambla". Great lunch and a good location not far from apartment with shops and restaurants. We are in a very diverse neighborhood. Many eastern and far eastern people here. Muslims make up about 20% of the population. Many have made their homes in this area. They are from all over, India, Pakistan, Morrocco, etc. many shops and restaurants. The aromas are great. Also, a panadaria and wine shop every few feet. Our kind of place.
We are doing the hop on and off bus thing tomorrow. Hope to see the Park Gruell, if lines are'nt to long. Should have time for more exploring.
Photos from our terrace. Had intermittent downpours. Area from above looks like scenes from India that I remember.
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